Today’s Spin Doctor tech tip focuses on one of those basic components of your road bike, your handlebar tape - something that you touch every time that you go for a ride. If you don’t remember when the last time was that you replaced your handlebar tape, it’s probably time to go ahead and give your bars a fresh, new wrap. Nothing freshens up your ride like some clean tape, such as our Forté Grip-Tec Handlebar Tape seen here:
Mark, one of the Spin Doctors here at our home office, gives you the breakdown on how to do this basic bike maintenance task yourself. Soon enough, you’ll be wrapping handlebars like a pro – as an extra tip, most folks start to wrap their handlebars towards the inside of their bars (from behind this will mean clockwise on the left side and counter-clockwise on the right):
If you need more help with your bicycle repair needs, head to your local Performance Bicycle store and set up a visit with your local Spin Doctor. Don’t live near one of our stores and need some technical advice? Get in touch with our Spin Doctor Tech Support team by email or phone – they are always ready to help with your technical questions.
For this week’s Spin Doctor Tech Tip, we’re going back to basics. If there is one skill that every cyclist should master, it’s changing a bike tire and tube. At some point you are going to get a flat or your tire will wear out, so being able to change these parts out yourself will save you both time and money. The best part is that it only takes a few minutes to master the techniques you need, and the only tools necessary are a set of tire levers and a pump (we’re big fans of our easy-to-use Spin Doctor Team HP Floor Pump).
Since it’s easier to demonstrate tire & tube changing when you can see the process in action, we put together a series of videos that walk you through the steps from start to finish. Even if you’re a tire & tube-changing veteran, it doesn’t hurt to watch a refresher course from our in-house Spin Doctor pros:
Changing a Bicycle Tire’s Tube
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Changing a Road Bike Tire
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Changing a Mountain Bike Tire
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Once you’ve become a master of the tire lever, you can test your new found prowess against the clock – but you’ve got some work to do if you want to beat this guy’s time:
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If you’re looking for more bicycle repair tips, head to your local Performance Bicycle store this Thursday, October 18, 2012 at 6:00 p.m. for our Basic Bike Maintenance Clinic. Our Spin Doctors will provide routine cleaning and maintenance techniques, expert tips & tricks, plus an overview of tools and gear every cyclist should have.
Don’t live near one of our stores and need some technical advice? Get in touch with our Spin Doctor Tech Support team by email or phone – they are always ready to help with your technical questions.
Derailleurs… almost every bike has them, yet adjusting and installing these essential components still instills fear in many home bike mechanics. If you want to improve your derailleur-adjusting skills, head to your local Performance Bicycle store this Thursday, October 11, 2012 at 6:00 p.m. for our Derailleur Madness Clinic. Our Spin Doctors will provide expert advice on how to adjust, fix and maintain your derailleurs, plus an overview of the tools and products needed.
Spin Doctor P-Handle Hex Wrench Set
Don’t live near one of our shops? Pick up a set of hex wrenches (like our Spin Doctor P-Handle Hex Wrench Set) and a phillips-head screwdriver and queue up our handy How-To videos below. Each video offers a solid grounding in the principals and techniques you’ll need to get your derailleurs shifting smooth once again.
How to adjust a bicycle front derailleur:
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How to adjust a bicyclerear derailleur:
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Still need some help? Bring your bike by your local Performance Bicycle and let one of our Spin Doctor mechanics take a look, or get in touch with our Spin Doctor Tech Support team by email or phone – they are always ready to help with your technical questions.
Did you miss last night’s In-store Spin Doctor Clinic – or do you not live near one of our shops? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered with today’s Spin Doctor Tech Tip.
In a perfect world bikes would never get flat tires or need periodic repair. But the world is not perfect, and besides it’d get boring if there were no routes, roads or trails that challenged both rider and bike! Instead, dealing with the occasional mid-ride repair is part of the sport. But don’t fret, with a little know-how and the right tools you’ll be ready for just about any problem that comes your way. Here are some tips and tricks to assure you never (well, rarely, anyway) finish a ride by walking your bike back to the garage or local bike shop.
BEFORE YOU RIDE
It’s impossible to prevent all riding mishaps, but a little preparation goes a long way! Before each ride, complete a quick check of your bike and gear: squeeze the brakes and rock the bike back and forth to make sure the brake calipers are tight and that there is no play in the headset; check bolts for tightness (stem and seatpost in particular); look for any frayed brake or shifter cables; check pedals to make sure they are tightly fastened to the crankset (the right pedal tightens clockwise; the left pedal tightens counter-clockwise); lube your chain, then wipe away excess lubricant; check tires for wear, cuts, blisters or lodged glass; pump tires to the manufacturer-recommended pressure (you can find this info on the tire’s sidewall); if you use clipless pedals, check that your cleat bolts are securely fastened. If you notice anything wrong during your check, either fix it yourself or take your bike to your local Performance Bicycle store before your ride!
5. Pump or C02 Inflation System: C02 systems are light and compact, but if you’re planning a long ride, take additional C02 cartridges or a back-up pump as well.
6. Multi-tool: These come in multiple shapes and sizes and configurations – know the bolt sizes on your bike and cleats and find a tool that has those (a tool with 4, 5 and 6mm Allen wrenches, plus flat and Philips head screwdrivers is a good start).
8. Chain Tool (also on many multi-tools): Broken mountain bike chains are not unusual, and even road chains occasionally snap. With a chain tool you can make a temporary fix to get you home. Don’t forget a replacement chain pin (Shimano) or a chain link connector (i.e. SRAM Power Link).
9. Tire Boot: A large cut in a tire’s sidewall can end your ride. Park Tool’s Tire Boot will adhere to the inside of the tire between the tire and tube to provide a temporary fix to a cut sidewall.
10. Cash: Call this the ultimate multi-tool – you can buy food and drinks, make a phone call if cell service doesn’t work, and even use a folded bill as substitute tire boot!
11. Other Essentials: Cell phone, ID card and any special medical alerts you may have.
FLATS HAPPEN
Whether you ride on the road or trail, you’re bound to get a flat tire once in a while. Make sure you’re comfortable changing a tube by yourself, so you don’t get stranded. Watch our handy How-To video below for a few tips (just remember that if you’re working on a bike with hydraulic disc brakes, never compress the brake levers with the disc removed, as this will push the caliper pistons inward and make it difficult to reinsert the disc).
And now a few IN-A-PINCH PRACTICES:
1. Got a flat and forgot your spare tube? Here are 2 emergency techniques to get you home:
Cut the tube at the puncture then tie it tightly back together. Stretch it into place, re-install the tire and inflate.
No tube, no pump? No worries! Pack your flat tire with as much grass and leaves as you can and pedal gingerly back to your car (this does works, for a little while)!
2. You ignored our suggestion to carry a tire boot and flatted when your tire sidewall got cut. What to do? Place a folded Power Bar wrapper or dollar bill, or a piece of plastic soda bottle between the tube and the cut, then carefully inflate the tire.
3. While shredding the righteous single track at Moab, you taco your front wheel and the tire is now rubbing on the fork. You’re not stuck yet! Remove the wheel from the bike and locate the apex of the bend. With the inflated tire still on the rim, strike the tire at the bend on a hard surface (that shouldn’t be hard to find in Moab). With care you can knock the wheel back into reasonable alignment (at least so it is not rubbing on the fork blades). If you have disc brakes, you are good to go. If you have rim brakes, disconnect them and carefully head back.
4. If you’ve broken a spoke, carefully remove it or, if necessary, wrap it around the nearest intact spoke on the same side of the wheel. Then true the wheel so it doesn’t drag on the frame or brake pads.
5. And finally here are a double speed and a single speed solution:
First, your rear derailleur gets destroyed on a rock. It has come apart and is unusable. Using a chain tool, you can rig your bike up as a single speed. Select a cog in the back that lines up with a ring on the crank. Usually the smaller rings in the front are better. Now cut the chain, drape it around the two rings you have selected, pull it tight and cut it again so the ends just reach. Reconnect it and pedal your new single speed the hipster way home.
Second, you are riding in the mountains and the rear gear cable snaps. The rear derailleur shifts to the highest gear so you and your bike grind to a halt. Are you stuck? Nope, screw in the “H” limit screw on the derailleur while turning the cranks. This will shift the rear derailleur to an easier gear. Continue tightening the screw until you have the easiest gear you can reach. Now pedal your semi-hipster, double-speed way back to the car.
We know that many folks out there have decided to ride in their first group charity ride this year. Whether the goal is to raise money, challenge yourself, or just have a good time on the bike, it takes some planning and preparation to make for a successful and stress-free day on the road. But all of your hard-earned training and planning can be for naught if you forget a few simple essentials the day of your ride. For advice on what to bring along with you the day of your big ride, we’ve turned to one of the resident Spin Doctors here at our headquarters (and veteran of many charity rides), Gene, to provide his insight into what you should bring to your next charity ride to make your day go as smoothly as possible.
Your bike – Check the condition of the tires, brakes, and drivetrain beforehand. Lube the chain and cables. Inflate the tires to the pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall. Look for cracks and cuts in the tires and replace the tires if necessary. Clean your bike. Some think that a clean bike is faster than a dirty bike. Whether or not this is true, while cleaning your bike, you may find a problem with the bike that was previously overlooked.
A helmet – Your helmet should fit snug without being uncomfortable. The helmet straps should buckle below your chin without putting pressure on your chin. Most charity rides require helmets be worn by all riders.
Water bottle / hydration – Almost as important as a helmet. Dehydration could drastically effect your enjoyment of the ride. You should drink about 28 ounces (a large capacity water bottle) of fluids every 30-45 minutes or whenever you are thirsty. Electrolyte drink mixes will help replenish the minerals lost during cycling activity as well as aid in recovering after the ride.
The front wheel – Bikes transported on roof racks sometimes require that the front wheel be removed. Nothing will ruin your day faster than realizing that you’ve left the wheel behind or misplaced the front wheel skewer.
Floor pump – Makes pre-ride bike prep easier and may lead to new friendships when you help someone else inflate their tires!
Riding gear – Cycling jersey, cycling shorts, cycling socks, cycling shoes, cycling helmet, cycling gloves, sunglasses or eye protection and sun block. None of these items are mandatory, except the helmet, but all of these items will make you more comfortable during and after the ride.
ID and an insurance card – Good to have at rider check-in and in emergency situations, especially if you have special medical needs.
Cell phone – Can contact ride control or a friend for assistance.
Money – Can be used as an extra donation to the charity being sponsored, for a bite to eat on the route, a tip for the mechanic (if you feel their service was exceptional), to purchase a replacement bike part, a dollar bill to “patch” a cut tire, and for post-ride activities.
First Aid kit – Nice to have at the car. Good for blisters, road rash, etc.
Knowledge of group riding – There are several sites with good articles about riding in a group, if you want to read up before trying your hand out on the road, available here, here, here and here. But the essentials of riding in a group are straightforward: be predictable, communicate with the group, stay alert, and be considerate of others.
An attainable goal – Ride a route that is suitable for you. Typically, you can safely complete a charity ride route if you’ve been able to recently ride 2/3 of the route’s distance comfortably. Don’t forget to take into account weather conditions and route elevation changes.
Foul weather gear – Be aware of the weather forecast. If rain is forecast, bring rain gear. If the temperature at the beginning of the ride is going to be much colder than later in the ride, layer your clothing so outer layers can be removed during the ride.
Nutrition – “Keeping the gas tank filled”. Nutrition bars and gel packs are easy to use while cycling and provide additional fuel for your ride. Experiment with new drink mixes and nutrition products well before the charity ride, not on the day of the event.
And finally, a friend or family member – Sharing the experience is much more enjoyable. Conversation and support during the ride helps the miles go quicker!
Proper hydration is key to your optimal cycling performance, as all bodily functions depend on good hydration. Sweating out as little as 2% of your body weight reduces your body’s ability to pump blood and cool itself!
Dehydration is a serious problem for us as cyclists, especially when temperatures & humidity rise. On those hot days that critical 2% can be lost in less than an hour! For safety and optimal performance, we need a balance of fluid, energy and electrolytes before, during and even after exercise.
Staying hydrated is a big and coordinated effort of your stomach, intestines and circulatory system.
Stomach: The stomach’s job is to prepare food and fluids for the intestines where absorption into the blood takes place. It adjusts the saltiness of food to match that of the intestines and blood, to speed absorption. Sport drinks are isotonic, which means that they are formulated at just the right saltiness so they move more quickly to the intestines.
Bottom line:Isotonic drinks move faster through the stomach than water alone.
Intestines: Fluids, food, electrolytes and energy molecules have to pass through the intestinal wall to reach the blood stream. The key constituents of sport drinks are designed at the molecular level to move more easily and quickly through the intestinal wall.
Bottom line: Sport drinks accelerate the passage of energy, select nutrients and water.
Circulatory System: The blood stream transports oxygen, fluid and fuel to the muscles then moves metabolic wastes and heat away. To work it needs fluid and salts, and isotonic sport drinks supply them and more.
Bottom line: By providing fluid, energy molecules and some salts isotonic sport drinks support the circulatory system and exercise performance.
Skin: The skin protects us, on cold and hot days. During hard exercise and exercise in the heat, your body loses necessary moisture and blood salt levels rise.
Bottom line:Sport drinks replace water and help to balance critical salt levels in the blood.
Kidneys: The kidneys function to maintain blood volume and saltiness, but during exercise, blood flow is diverted to muscles, heart and skin and so the kidneys are basically off line. After exercise the kidneys work to normalize blood fluid volume and saltiness.
Bottom line: Drinking sport drinks right after exercise can speed recovery from exercise.
Bottom Line Overall: To stay hydrated during the hottest days and hardest workouts, you need a sports drink made up of water, energy (from carbohydrates), and electrolytes (salts).
All of the sport drinks we carry feature a blend of these important nutrients, but, as always, if you have questions about any cycling nutrition & hydration products (or anything else we carry), give our in-house Spin Doctor Technical Support team a call at 800 553-8324 (TECH), or send your email question to spindoctor@performanceinc.com. They’re ready to answer your questions and offer advice 5 days a week.
So you’ve decided to upgrade to the latest and greatest drivetrains from Shimano or Campagnolo, but now you’ve got to figure out how to deal with the new chain that you need for your new components. Read on below for some important information, from our Spin Doctor Product Services team, that you need to know before you ever install a Campy 11-speed or new Shimano 10-speed chain.
Installing or shortening the Campy 11-speed chain requires special procedures and tools:
• New chains can only be shortened on the end opposite the special link. The special link is marked by a plastic tag and a batch number.
• The 11-speed chains are connected with a special piloted connecting pin (Ultra-Link CN RE 500). The pin must be driven from the inside out.
• For secure operation the end of the connecting pin Ultra-Link CN RE 500 must be flattened or peened once its pilot is snapped off.
CT-11 in action
• The Campy UT-CN300 chain tool can shorten, connect and peen the connecting pin, or the Park Master Chain Tool (CT-4.2 or CT-4) can be used for connecting and shortening but the Park CT-11 tool must be used for peening. The CT-11’s sole function is peening the Campy 11-speed chain. It should not be used for anything else.
• The Campy 11-speed chain can only be broken and reattached 2 times and the special connecting pin can only be attached to the special link.
Like the Campy 11-speed chain, the Shimano Asymmetrical chains requires some special steps:
• The chains have distinct inner and outer sides. The inner side outer chain plates have rectangular cut-outs. The outside outer chain plates will have model designations.
Dura-Ace 7901 chain inside plates
• The connecting pins should be installed on the leading edge of an outside plate. Viewed from the drive side, the leading edge of the top run of chain from cassette to crank will be the right of an out plate’s 2 holes.
Outer chain plates - connecting pin should go in rightmost holes
• When readjusting the length of an installed chain, the connecting pin should be installed from the same side as the chain cutter.
Dyna-Sys chains have 4 different types of outer plates that facilitate shifting up & down on the cassette or between chainrings.
• The Dyna-Sys chains have distinct inner and outer sides. The inner side outer chain plates have no lettering while the outside has outer chain plates that are alternating stamped with HG-X and Shimano.
HG74 SLX chain - inside chain plates
• The connecting pins should be installed on the leading edge of an outside plate. Viewed from the drive side, the leading edge of the top run of chain from cassette to crank will be the right of an outer plate’s 2 holes.
Outer chain plates - connecting pin should go in rightmost holes
• When readjusting the length of an installed chain, the connecting pin should be installed from the same side as the chain cutter.
• Once installed the connecting pin should never be removed again except if the chain is to be discarded.
In case you’re wondering, the close-up shots of these chains come from sample versions of our new 2011 bike lineup, available soon (shot in the lobby of our headquarters, because it was a sunny spot). The road chain was on our top-of-the-line 2011 Scattante CFR Pro road bike:
While the mountain chain was on our brand new Access Stealth 3.0 carbon 29er mountain bike, as seen below (we’ll have a whole lot more to share about these bikes very soon):
For today’s employee profile, meet Andrew Miller, the Spin Doctor mechanic for our Akron, Ohio store. Andrew is not only a top-notch Spin Doctor-certified mechanic, he is also gives back to the local cycling community through his work with the Cleveland Area Mountain Bike Association and the Cleveland Bike Alliance. Read on below to learn more about Andrew, or just swing by our Akron, Ohio store and say hello.
How long have you worked at Performance ?
Since 2009.
How did you get started in cycling ?
I rode bikes as a kid, but I really started riding again after a visit to D.C. with my sister, during which we rented bikes. I immediately fell back in love with the sport and I haven’t stopped cycling since.
How long have you been cycling ?
It’s been 4 years since I started up again.
What’s type of riding do you like?
Anything with 2 wheels: mountain bike, cyclocross or road!
Do you have any racing experience?
I have raced for 3 seasons: 3 seasons off-road, 2 on the road, and 1 cyclocross.
The 2 snarling dogs of mountain bike components (SRAM and Shimano) have decided that 9 are just not enough. Yep, they are telling us that our mountain bikes need 10 gears in the back.
The first whisperings came in 2008 when bike mags and blogs hinted at the change. Late in 2009 SRAM trotted out its high-zoot XX 2×10 drivetrain. Then in 2010 SRAM expanded their 2 x10 offerings to include their X0, X9 and X7 groups.
Then the cold war turned hot! Could or would Shimano stand pat? No way, and in 2010 out comes Shimano’s 10-speedDyna-Sys drivetrain in their top shelf XTR and XT cross country groups and in their SLX all-mountain group.
According to the early reviews these groups work great but what about compatibility? We’ll try to answer those questions but first let us introduce the new…
SRAM 2×10. The 2×10 is so-called because it pairs a double chainring crankset with a 10 speed cassette. The surprising thing about SRAM’s 2×10 drivetrains is that they have pretty much the same range of easy and hard gears as traditional 3×9 systems.
How is that possible? First, the 10-speed cassette has an extra cog and a wider range (11-36 vs. 11-34 for the old 9-speed). And second, the double cranks have a wide jump between small and large rings. The double is available in either a higher 28-42 or a bit lower 26-39 tooth combinations. Traditional triples are 22-32-44.
SRAM XX 10-speed Cassette - Item #50-7639
Here’s SRAM’s take: “2X10 gives you the same amount of useable gears of a 3X9 system but with lighter weight, faster front shifting and less complexity.” According to SRAM the 2X10 would not be possible without their new X Glide chainrings (which use a unique 4-bolt 120/80mm bolt circle diameter). These specially mated rings are sized so every tooth on the small ring lines up perfectly with a tooth on the big ring. Plus the teeth are shaped to facilitate each shift, either up or down.
SRAM XX 39/26 BB30 Crankset - Item #50-7620
The good news is that 2×10 is lighter, simpler and its shifting is synapse-quick, but there are compatibility issues. SRAM’s 10-speed drivetrain components are all cross-compatible, with a few exceptions:
SRAM XX Low Clamp Top Pull Front Derailleur - Item #50-7635 (next to old X9 triple front derailleur)
2. Their 3×10 drivetrains require a triple left hand shifter, 10-speed triple crank, 10-speed chain and triple front derailleur.
3. In a switch, SRAM’s 10-speed mountain bike derailleurs (XX, X0, X9 & X7) are now compatible with their 10-speed road shifters (Red, Force, Rival & Apex). So you can use Rival shifters with a XX rear derailleur and wide range X7 10-speed cassette for mountain centuries.
SRAM XX Rear Derailleur - Item #50-7616
4. And the bummer, their 10-speed MTB derailleurs are not compatible with their 9-speed MTB drivetrains!
SHIMANO Dyna-Sys. Shimano revamped all the key parts of their 10-speed Dyna-Sys drivetrain. They have created cassettes, front and rear derailleurs, shifters, chains and cranks that are unique and essential to the operation of the system.
The rear derailleur got a more direct cable routing (like SRAM), their shifter actuation ratio got tighter (like SRAM), their cranks got redesigned chainrings (like SRAM), their cassette got a wider range (11-36 like SRAM) and their D-S cranks are available in both 2X10 (D-S XTR only) and 3X10 (like SRAM). They also redesigned their Dyna-Sys specific asymmetrical chain (not like SRAM). The D-S chain got 4 distinctly different outer plates to speed shifting. Their triple cranks got tighter ratios (24-32-42 vs. 22-32-44) and their brand new D-S XTR double is available in multiple combinations (28-40 & 26-38 are options, with 4-bolt 88mm BCD) with ranges like SRAM.
As far as compatibility, Shimano’s Dyna-Sys products are only compatible with components in the Dyna-Sys lineup, from XTR to SLX. They are not compatible with any other parts, such as using a Dyna-Sys derailleur with 9-speed shifters. The only part that has not changed is the front/left shifter. It has remained the same and does not include a Dyna-Sys logo.
3. In a switch, Shimano’s D-S 10 speed rear derailleurs (XTR, XT and SLX) are NOT compatible with Shimano road shifters nor with other non-D-S MTB shifters.
We hope that this clears up some of the questions you’ve got about these new 10-speed mountain bike components, but if you need more help be sure to give Spin Doctor Product Services a call; they’ll be happy to help!
You can find all of our 10-speed mountain bike components in one handy group here.
Our Oceanside, CA store’s Spin Doctor-certified lead mechanic, Ed Kajioka, has been a professional bike mechanic since 1992. A native of the sunny shores of Hawaii, Ed is truly passionate about our sport and enjoys riding bikes as much as he enjoys wrenching on them as a Performance Spin Doctor.
He’s excited about turning people on to cycling, and helping them in any way he can: whether that means repairing or upgrading their bikes, or simply talking about the places he rides. As an extremely experienced mechanic, Ed relishes the challenge of maximizing the performance of his customers’ bikes.
Ed’s top-notch mechanic skills include everything from performing basic tune-ups to custom wheel builds and fork overhauls. Ed will work on any type of bike without prejudice, from an $89 bike to an $8,900 bike purchased at another shop.
Of course Ed also loves to ride, and he participates in all cycling disciplines at a high level. His mountain bike handling skills are second to none, and you can often find him taming the singletrack on the trails around Lake Calaveras. Ed has even been known to mix it up at the local BMX park or on a nighttime urban assault ride. And as if that isn’t enough, he’s also super strong and fast on a road bike.
Ed’s passion is cycling, any type of cycling,so if you drop by our Oceanside store, be sure to head back to the Spin Doctor counter and say hello… your bike will thank you! And if you ever get the chance to ride with Ed, you don’t want to pass it up!
Mark, one of the Spin Doctors here at our home office, gives you the breakdown on how to do this basic bike maintenance task yourself. Soon enough, you’ll be wrapping handlebars like a pro – as an extra tip, most folks start to wrap their handlebars towards the inside of their bars (from behind this will mean clockwise on the left side and counter-clockwise on the right):
